Traveling out of Western Washington, we chose not to take Interstate-5, but instead traveled along a series of state highways and back roads through the southwestern corner of the state. After some scenic views of Willapa Bay and a quick pit-stop at Fort Columbia State Park, we were across the bridge and entering Astoria, Oregon.
A couple hundred miles to the north of Astoria lies the town of Forks, Washington. Forks and Astoria-- geography and ceaselessly grey skies aside-- share one other interesting commonality; each town has played host to Hollywood. Forks is currently in the depths of "Twilight-Mania." Twenty-five years before sparkling vampires and Native American werewolves roamed the Olympic Peninsula, The Goonies searched for lost treasure right here in Astoria. Each town his profited greatly over the years due to their tinsel-town connection
From the home of the Goonies, we continued south-- ceaseless storm clouds and a blustery wind pushing in off the vast ocean to the west. About twenty minutes down the famous Route 101 we reached Seaside, and got our first glimpse of the Oregon coastline. Mighty, storm-fed waves bashed upon the sandy beach. Aside from a pair of dog-walkers, their raincoats buttoned up tight, the mile-long strand was completely deserted. Having traveled straight out of winter, for us, the salt air and warmer temperatures were a welcome respite, despite the storm. After a quick bite in Seaside-- a bustling tourist town with a bit of a New Jersey feel to it-- we were back on the road and again headed south. The road continued on through a thick, coastal forest. Coastal forests have a different feel to them than those in the mountains. The undergrowth is thicker-- it very seldom snows here-- and the vegetation itself seems heartier too-- probably something to do with all of the salt in the air.
The next town on the map-- and our final destination-- is Cannon Beach. A quaint town, driven by tourism yet managing to give off a homely vibe, Cannon Beach is nestled along the 101 in the apex of a large crescent-shaped cove at the foot of Oregon's Coast Range. The locale's iconic feature is the massive Haystack Rock, rising high above the surf immediately offshore. This monolith is the seasonal nesting site for a plethora of seabirds-- including puffins and terns-- and can be accessed by foot at low-tide. The site was once a hotbed of climbing activity, but has been a designated wildlife refuge since 1976. Today, only a couple dozen biologists are issued permits to climb each year. Other climbers face a $1500 fine-- which is, apparently, very strictly enforced.
Lodging options along this stretch of the Oregon Coast are as diverse as it's fluctuant climate. From luxurious ocean-view estates, to tent camping in the woods, the decision really plays down to a matter of personal preference. Aside from camping-- which during a springtime storm adjacent to the northern Pacific Ocean didn't realistically play into our decision-- you'll find a great resource for securing affordable lodging in Cannon Beach at: www.cannonbeachhotellodgings.com. The site tracks a variety of options right in town, and keeps solid eye on current packages and promotions. We were able to nail down three nights in relatively luxurious setting for around $200-- $70 per night! Granted this was in April-- and rather stormy outside-- when we checked in, but due to my affinity for the Oregon Coast, I've kept an eye on the site's bargain offers, and have seen great deals pop up on a weekly basis.
Here in the Pacific Northwest, we're a hearty bunch. We don't let a little bit of rain stop us from having a good time.The area surrounding Cannon Beach is a veritable hotbed of outdoor activities, including hiking, surfing, mountain-biking and one of the largest annual kite festivals anywhere on the west coast. A few miles south of town, in a stand of dense, coastal old-growth, we find Oswald West State Park. The park covers thousands of acres of ocean-front, including the beach at Smugglers Cove-- a notable surfing spot. The surf-break closes out in storm swell, but that aside, is known to produce one of the cleanest and most consistent waves anywhere in Oregon. A pathway along the beach also leads south to the Devils Cauldron-- an interesting geologic formation that causes seawater to churn and spout in peculiar ways. Oswald West is a great place to spend a day, or a weekend, playing in the woods, water, weather or sunshine.
A bit further south of Cannon Beach, we find more beaches, a couple of small tourist towns, and eventually the town of Tillamook. Yes, this is where the cheese comes from. At the company's facilities, visitors are treated to a museum and tour, all for free, complete with complimentary samples of cheese and ice cream. The onsite gift-shop also carries novelty Tillamook products and flavors you won't find in a store near you.
Eventually the weather gods capitulated and the sun came out. Our last day in Cannon Beach was spent on the sand, and in the sun. No sunny day is more rewarding than the first one after a storm. Somehow, the colors of your surroundings seem just that much more vibrant. If you catch the parting clouds early enough, you're treated to a stunning view of salt-laden groundwater evaporating in the morning sun-- offering the curious spectacle of bountiful rainbows shifting in the morning shadows along the miles of the strand. With some planning, and a little bit of luck, springtime along the Oregon Coast can produce summer-like weather, at wintertime pricing. The Pacific Northwest is such a beautiful place, with so many locations deserving of discovery. Why spend an arm and a leg to travel halfway around the world, if you've yet to explore your own backyard?
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