Arizona: Beyond the Desert

“Life is a great adventure—accept it in such a spirit.” – Theodore Roosevelt

A century ago, America was well on her way to irreparably destroying the very earth on which she sat. In a matter of decades, the young nation had carved a triumphant swathe across the virgin continent, leaving a path of death and destruction in its wake. Displacement and mass-extinction—the results of “progress.” Whatever the sins of our past, there is no denying that without this period of wild expansionism—“manifest destiny” we call it, America may never have grown into the great nation she is today.

Early champions of wilderness preservation, such as Teddy Roosevelt, John Muir, and even Gifford Pinchot, saw the grim future we were barreling into, if steps toward conservation weren’t to be taken. These three men each held distinctly different beliefs of what exactly entailed “conservation.” That being said, it is due to their initial efforts and of those who followed in their stead, that our most beautiful and wild of places remain intact—and en-large unadulterated, for the adventure and enjoyment of the generations.

In the American southwest, contrast is king. This is where the Rocky Mountains meet the Sonoran Desert, where the old west comingles with metropolis. Humanity has thrived here, in this, the most unforgiving of environments for millennia, and today millions call sprawling desert oasis’ home. Until the middle part of the 20^th century this would have been impossible; utterly unsustainable. Only a hundred years earlier, dusty settlements had clung to life surrounding railroad development and mineral deposits. Water was scarce, and life was unimaginably hard—we call this period: the Wild West.

Pictured Right: With Beaver Creek—and water—nearby, cactus grow on the outskirts of a true desert oasis. Montezuma Castle, AZ.

Today, Phoenix, Arizona is the 5^th largest incorporated city in the United States, as well as one of the fastest growing. If not for vast technological improvements in irrigation since the 1940’s, and a series of monumental engineering projects routing massive quantities of water hundreds of miles into the desert, the viability of Phoenix as a metropolitan area wouldn’t have even been feasible. Without water, Phoenix is a desert—in fact, the Sonoran Desert; hot, flat, and dry.

Deserts are beautiful in their own right, playing host to an interesting array of specialist flora and fauna. These niche ecosystems are fragile to the hilt, relying on as little as 10” of liquid precipitation per year, often coming all at once. However, the scope of Arizona’s natural beauty stretches far beyond that presented by the Sonoran Desert. One need simply travel north out of Phoenix along Interstate 17. An hour or so outside of the city-limits, you’ve inperceptively climbed the better part of a mile in elevation; entering the high desert—a different animal entirely. The scenery has quickly morphed. The variety of cactus has changed, and you’ve entered a national forest, albeit mostly devoid of trees. The most notable difference between the plateau and the desert floor is the presence, although not exactly in abundance, of water.

Pictured Left: Montezuma Castle; home to the Sinagua Indians and their predecessors for the better part of a millennium. The cliff-side dwelling pictured is just the remaining tower of what was once a vast, settlement complex.

This corner of the high-desert was the traditional home of numerous pre-Columbian native peoples; including the Sinagua. The area remains tribal land today, home to the Yavapai and Apache tribes. The nearby Cliff Side Casino, only a couple of miles outside of the Montezuma Castle National Monument, has quickly become the area’s single largest employer, providing much needed revenue to the surrounding, impoverished community. As a direct result of the casino, schools have been modernized, a medical complex has been constructed, and tribal unemployment has been reduced to less than 5%; all in the span of little more than a decade.

Travelling further northward, at around 6000 feet in elevation, the terrain undergoes a startling transformation; bringing to mind visions of Wile E. Coyote and Roadrunner. The bare, rolling hills and charred brush of the high desert suddenly give way to vast, low-lying forests. Jagged massifs of red rock rise high in the distance, stark in contrast against the deep blue of the Arizona sky.

By the time you reach the resort communities of Oak Creek and Sedona, you’re among the rocks, even the dirt is a rusty shade of red. It’s a stunningly beautiful place; a different sort of beauty entirely. The sunlight hitting the vibrant red of the surrounding landscape seems to give the air itself a faint orange glow. It’s as if you’re on the surface of Mars—such a surreal landscape.

The village of Oak Creek, Arizona rests in the shadow of a vast Hilton resort complex, offering the standard 4 or 5 star experience; complete with 18 holes. Yet, Oak Creek is just an appetizer to Sedona. On the valley floor, surrounded by ancient and stunning formations of red rock, Sedona is a true southwestern paradise. The pueblo architecture of the town itself manages to inconspicuously blend with the surrounding landscape, and in places, nearly adds to the natural beauty. There certainly is money here. Gently rising from the peaceful waters of Oak Creek, the town offers a variety of shopping, dining and lodging fit for any budget.

Outside of Sedona, adventure beckons—presenting ample terrain fit for even the most accomplished climber, hiker or mountain-bike enthusiast in every direction. Following the creek north and out of town, you enter the impressive Oak Creek Canyon, where deciduous forests of oak and cottonwood reign supreme. A number of must-see viewpoints and beautiful swimming holes dot this roadway into the mountains. Wait, mountains? In Arizona?

The roadway climbs, winding and meandering like a mountain pass, rising half a mile from the valley floor to an ultimate elevation of more than 8000 feet. Even in April, there is evidence of winter here. The San Francisco Peaks tower in the distance, above surrounding pine forests, and the mountainous college community of Flagstaff. Home to Northern Arizona University, and nearly 100,000 permanent residents, Flagstaff is a “real city.” In 1930, astronomer Clyde Tombaugh discovered the planet Pluto from Flagstaff’s Lowell Observatory. In the years since Pluto’s recent demotion from planetary status, the observatory’s gift shop has seemingly filled with an interesting assortment of “save Pluto” merchandise. Lowell offers nightly viewings and an engaging visitor experience; a must-see for any Flagstaff tourist.

Pictured Right: Evidenced by the design of this structure, half traditional pueblo and half log cabin, the mountains meet the desert here in northern Arizona. -Grand Canyon, AZ.

Aside from the obvious wine-and-dine scene presented by any college town worth its weight in paper, Flagstaff is also the gateway to the San Francisco Peaks, the Arizona Ski Bowl, and happens to be the nearest major city to the Grand Canyon. As is such, the town has become a Mecca of sorts for outdoor enthusiasts from throughout the southwest, and beyond.

Forever pushing northward and now into Arizona’s largest mountains, we approach the 12,637 ft. Humphreys Peak. Called Aaloosaktukwi by the native Hopi tribe, the peak isn’t too impressive, rising only 4000 feet or so above the surrounding plain. However this subtly reminds us that we’re moving along a paved roadway over 8000 feet above sea level—in April no less; a daunting to impossible task in mountains further north. Nestled beneath Humphreys, lies the Arizona Ski Bowl—offering decent, and at times world-class skiing within 150 miles of the Sonoran Desert and the Phoenix metro-area. From the ski-area, it’s less than an hour’s travel—a figurative hop, skip and a jump—to one of the world’s greatest natural wonders; The Grand Canyon.

Approaching the 277 mile gorge, the world’s longest, we pass through what seems like an endless expanse of juniper forest, eventually comingling with pine close to the colossus’ southern rim. The National Park itself is one of the most expensive to enter, costing at least $25.00 for a day visit. However, the park-pass is good for seven days; allowing ample time for all but the most adventurous of visitors to explore the canyon. Lodging and amenities are numerous, with five lodges present within the park, and a number of hotels available in the adjacent community of Tusayan. The small town also hosts a regional airport, and is the jumping off point for several outfits offering a spendy alternative to traditional sightseeing: helicopter tours. If such luxury is a part of your travel budget, a birds-eye view of the canyon—complete with a riverside lunch a mile below the rim, is all but a must.

Pictured Above: At 277 miles long, a mile deep, and as much as eighteen miles across, Arizona’s Grand Canyon is a spectacle the likes of which cannot be found anywhere else on the planet. Two round-trip tickets to Phoenix during spring break—about 700 dollars. Moonrise over the southern rim of the Grand Canyon—Priceless.

Arizona’s crown-jewel, and one of Earth’s “seven natural wonders,” the Grand Canyon is a true sight to behold. Created through geologic processes over the course of the last two billion years—half the lifespan of the planet itself—the gorge, and the present-day national park that now encompasses it, play host to an average of 4.4 million annual visitors. The view from the rim is truly awe-inspiring; humbling, demonstrating how small that we as individuals really are. Two billion years; what is the average American lifespan of 78 years in comparison? Pleasantly miniscule.

The world is so big, so much to see, so much beauty to behold. Our time here is short; the availability of time to be devoted to adventure and travel—even shorter. From the fragility of her deserts, through the elegance of red rock country, amidst the surprising scope of her San Francisco Peaks, and on to one of the grandest natural spectacles on this Earth; if it’s adventure you seek, Arizona is a good place to start.